The Historic Pacific Highway
in Washington

Trip to Olympia 1862

Editorial Correspondence
Washington Statesman
Olympia
December 2, 1862

At five o'clock on Thursday morning, the watch-boy of Arrigoni’s Hotel gave the announcement that the steamer would be off in half an hour, and in obedience to it your humble servant secured a passage by going promptly aboard. Five o‘clock in the morning is just the hour that most of folks feel inclined to sleep, and consequently the steamer seldom leaves her wharf without leaving somebody behind.

Although it is a disagreeable hour to emerge from a comfortable bed into the chilling fog, it must nevertheless be done if one would ride on the Cowlitz; and indulgence does not help the matter in the least, as each successive morning rings out the five o'clock admonition. At one o'clock we landed at Monticello, and had the pleasure of dining with our old friend, Dr. Burbank, at really one of the most luxurious and best spread tables that had been our good fortune to find in the country.

It was thanksgiving day, and it was a thanksgiving dinner so far at least as the passengers were concerned, for they generally expressed themselves to this effect. At Monticello we took the stage, a two horse open vehicle and proceeding twelve miles to what is called the foot of the mountain, exchanged our most uncomfortable seats in the mud wagon for saddle horses, for a distance of sixteen miles, over the mountain and over what I should call the worst piece of road ever traveled. 

Here we halted for the night, and at four next morning took the “coach" again, this time an ordinary lumber wagon, with old-fashioned spring-poles inside the box to support the seats, and proceeding forward at the rate of sixty miles in twelve hours, received a most severe pounding before our arrival in Olympia. We traveled the Military road, which was opened by the government at a cost of thirty thousand dollars.

The old road leaves the Cowlitz river at the old Cowlitz landing, and is said to be better than the military road, the settlers generally preferring it. A great deal of rough "corduroy" work has been done by the citizens on the Military road, but for which I an informed it would be even now impassible. There are fine agricultural settlements along the road, and some very desirable farms. The whole country has, however, the appearance of having been at sometime in a far more prosperous condition than at present.

Many places which would make really desirable homesteads if cultivated, are in a measure run down, and others are entirely deserted. Claquato, is the name of a neat little town on the Chehalis, comprising a hotel, store, schoolhouse, and several nice residences; and is situated in the midst of a very rich agricultural country. The Sound, so far as I have seen, is emphatically a timbered country, with a rugged uneven surface, with here and there small valleys of rather poor land, some of it entirely unsusceptible of profitable cultivation.

Olympia is situated at the head of the Sound, which, is perhaps a couple of miles in width as far down as you can see. The town has an extremely antiquated, not to say dilapidated and shabby appearance. The surface of the ground upon which it is built is quite uneven, there being here and there a ravine, a hill, and a hollow, rendering the building and the shape of the town very irregular and ungraceful. 

A portion of the town is set upon stilts in order to escape the high tide, and when the tide is up I am told the inhabitants resort to flat-boats and skiffs. One solitary wharf, which looks as though it needed repairs, or perhaps appears awkward in its loneliness, leads out two or three hundred yards into the Sound, which the steamer and small craft are obliged to approach when the tide is in, and await and watch the same favorable opportunity for leaving.

There are two or three elegant residences in town, and two magnificent livery stables. Further the deponent, as a man of truth and veracity, maketh no favorable mention. The capital building is about three-quarters of a mile from town, located in the woods affording “spouting” members the opportunity to draw inspiration from the tall firs which stand thickly about the building, rather than from too frequent “imbibifications.” I don’t know but the idea is good enough, but it is a horrible long walk, uphill at that.

The members from the lower country are all in excepting two. Seven are still absent from east of the mountains. The Council have not yet organized, waiting for the absent members. The House met on Monday and made a temporary organization by the election of Mr. Charles Eagan, speaker, and Mr. Hurd, chief clerk. It was the general desire of the members to give the absentees a chance to get in before the permanent organization was made, and consequently many did not attend on Monday. 

A committee on credentials was appointed, and the House adjourned until today. With the same mutual understanding in respect to waiting for absent members, the House convened today at eleven o‘clock. The committee on credentials asked further time to report, which was granted, and the House adjourned until tomorrow morning. I confidently expect that our members will reach here tonight, or at latest by tomorrow night, and have so assured the members of both houses.

The amount of “bumming" and “buttonholing” for the various positions in the gift of the Legislature, is perfectly disgusting and intolerable. The applicants are as eager as hungry wolves, and I have no doubt from assurances of members that it is some source of satisfaction to know at least that they cannot all get a place. Whether the honor or the pay makes the positions desirable, with these clamorous “hombres,” is perhaps a question of human nature. 

I am told that nearly all the members of the Council are candidates for President of that body; and there are a dozen or more candidates for the speakership. I apprehend, however, that there will be little delay in organizing both bodies when the members all arrive. I will keep you posted touching all questions of importance, particularly to the upper country, trusting that this winter the communication may not be interrupted.